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  • Map showing occupied lands during the siege of Sarajevo
    Balkans 2014

    Sarajevo is a sly seductress

    ByLane May 15, 2014June 7, 2024

    My first impressions of Sarajevo, arriving in pouring rain and heavy traffic two nights ago after a long day of driving, were not so good. The city seemed dank and crowded and not ready for prime time. Even yesterday, after that wonderful day spent with Amir, I was more enamored of the stories than of the…

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  • My Walk with Amir
    Balkans 2014

    My Walk with Amir

    ByLane May 15, 2014June 13, 2024

    I’m going to try something different today. I’m not going to talk about what I saw. And I’m not going to include any of the photos I took. (For one thing, it was raining all day and many of my photos are blurred by raindrops on the lens. Also, my camera got so wet it…

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  • Driving, Rain in Bosnia
    Balkans 2014

    Driving, Rain in Bosnia

    ByLane May 13, 2014June 7, 2024

    We departed this morning a little before 9:00, anticipating the longest drive of the trip, estimated by Google (and by the folks at JayWay, the tour company that helped create the itinerary) as about five hours. But we didn’t arrive at our apartment in Sarajevo at 17:30, making the total day close to nine hours. We…

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  • Compared to this, Niagara is a leaky faucet
    Balkans 2014

    Compared to this, Niagara is a leaky faucet

    ByLane May 12, 2014June 7, 2024

    There’s really not much to say about Plitvice Lakes National Park. The pictures don’t do it justice. I took some videos which also only pretend to capture the scope of it. I’ll try to say how it made me feel.

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  • The hills are alive (or not so much)
    Balkans 2014

    The hills are alive (or not so much)

    ByLane May 11, 2014June 7, 2024

    Who’s bored with hearing about breakfast? Let’s skip ahead. We explored the hill towns of Istria today. When I was first researching this trip, I thought I might want to skip Istria, because it has hill towns just like Tuscany, and I’ve already been there. I wondered whether Istria was special and unique enough to warrant…

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  • Rovinj and Rovigno
    Balkans 2014

    Rovinj and Rovigno

    ByLane May 11, 2014June 7, 2024

    I feel bad about yesterday’s blog post. (Actually it was not yesterday, it was Friday; this is yesterday’s post.) I was so blown away by the sunset that I didn’t actually write about the experiences of the day. I’ll try to do better.

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  • Did I mention the sunset?
    Balkans 2014

    Did I mention the sunset?

    ByLane May 9, 2014June 7, 2024

    We left Kobarid this morning after breakfast, and we headed toward Tolmin. At the TI in Kobarid, Korika Tolminska (Tolmin Gorge) was suggested as a great place to stop. And it was a great suggestion. It only took about 45 minutes to hike through, but it was jam packed with gorgeous scenery (pun intended) and…

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  • World War I as it’s never taught in school
    Balkans 2014

    World War I as it’s never taught in school

    ByLane May 9, 2014June 7, 2024

    Today’s post is a history lesson illustrated by fabulous scenery.

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  • Going up (and down)
    Balkans 2014

    Going up (and down)

    ByLane May 7, 2014June 7, 2024

    It’s a struggle to identify a unifying theme of the day today. Ups and downs, as well as lefts and rights, probably is the best I can do. We made a wrong turn trying to get to the Plečnik cemetery, we got completely lost looking for the old town and the beekeeping museum in the…

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  • ‘Fucking Gorgeous’
    Balkans 2014

    ‘Fucking Gorgeous’

    ByLane May 7, 2014June 7, 2024

    When we were driving via a twisty back road up and over the mountains to Bohinj this morning, Troy said she imagined I would describe the view in eloquent, dignified, refined language. Whereas she would just say “It was a fucking gorgeous drive.”

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  • Jože Plečnik and Friends
    Balkans 2014

    Jože Plečnik and Friends

    ByLane May 6, 2014June 7, 2024

    My circadian rhythms must have been all akimbo, because I simply could not sleep for most of the night last night.  After I finished yesterday’s post, I quickly conked out. When I woke up, I was wide awake, but it was still dark.  It turned out it was 12:30. And no matter what I did,…

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  • A flavor of Ljubljana
    Balkans 2014

    A flavor of Ljubljana

    ByLane May 4, 2014June 7, 2024

    If I remembered how awful it is to sit in an airplane for 9+ hours, I would start having second thoughts about my love of travel. But here I am in Ljubljana, seeing the stuff I’ve been looking at pictures of, only it’s real! And it’s charming.

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