Turkey and the Caucasus 2022
A story of changing plans

The genesis for my trip to Turkey and the Caucasus came in January 2020. I booked a tour to Israel and Jordan for that fall, and I was thinking that it would be good to start with a few days in Rome, a city I’ve never visited. I could use the time to get over jetlag before the tour, and of course, to see Rome.
When I started looking at flights, it turned out that a stopover in Rome was very inconvenient. So I looked into some alternatives, and I settled on Istanbul. Turkish Airlines flies direct from Mexico City, and I could fly from there to Amman and back from Tel Aviv.
But before I could book my flights, the world changed. The Covid-19 pandemic upended my plans completely. Not knowing what would happen, I postponed the trip until fall of 2021. When that also proved unrealistic, I postponed again to February/March 2022. That, too, wasn’t possible. Finally, I canceled the trip and instead booked a tour to Machu Picchu and the Galápagos for late spring 2022.
By that time, though, Turkey jumped to the top of my bucket list. Israel’s borders were closed, but travel to Turkey was wide open.
As I started to plan, I thought I should expand my itinerary beyond just Turkey, and I settled on Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, and I booked the trip for fall 2022. By that time, while Covid was still a factor, travel restrictions were ending, face-masks no longer required, and borders were open. (Well, except the land border between Azerbaijan and its neighbors, so I had to make some last-minute adjustments to the itinerary.)
Finally…
I flew from Guadalajara to Mexico City, spending the night at the pod hotel in the airport before my morning flight to Istanbul. I spent five nights in Istanbul, and I booked a tour with Turkey Insiders that took me to Ephesus, Pamukkale, Antalya, and Cappadocia. Then I flew to Baku for the Caucasus portion of my trip, which I booked with JayWay Travel. I spent six days in Azerbaijan, ten days in Georgia, and four days in Armenia.
I started out blogging regularly, but as the trip went on, I fell behind. So I ended up doing something I haven’t really done before: I blogged about most of my experiences in the Caucasus after I got home.
As usual, I took way too many photos.
Photos
Turkey
Istanbul (371 items)
Ephesus and Vicinity (68 items)
Kuşadası (48 items)
Pamukkale and Hierapolis (35 items)
Antalya (54 items)
Perge, Aspendos, and Side (80 items)
Cappadocia (164 items)
Azerbaijan
Baku (244 items)
Gobustan (45 items)
Guba and Khinalig (87 items)
Shaki (129 items)
Georgia
Tbilisi (198 items)
Sighnaghi (34 items)
Kakheti Part 1 (90 items)
Mtskheta (28 items)
Kazbegi (105 items)
Kakheti Part 2 (54 items)
Gori and Chiatura (73 items)
Kutaisi (132 items)
Tskaltubo (61 items)
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park (60 items)
Akhaltsikhe (77 items)
Vardzia and Khertvisi (80 items)
Armenia
Gyumri and Dashtadem (29 items)
Yerevan (87 items)
Geghard Monastery (35 items)
Garni (20 items)
Khor Virap and Noravank (38 items)
Thematic Albums
Istanbul Mosques (59 items)
Food and drink in Turkey (93 items)
The faded glory of Tbilisi (66 items)
The Caucasus: Mosques, Churches, and Monasteries (285 items)
Food and drink in the Caucasus (137 items)
“Best Of” Albums
Istanbul Top 50
Asian Turkey Top 50
Azerbaijan Top 50
Georgia Top 100
Armenia Top 30
Blog Posts
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My next adventure: Turkey and the Caucasus
Seems I just got back from South America, and I’m already just a few months away from my next adventure to Turkey and the Caucasus. I settled on my plans sooner than normal, because I was concerned about rising airline prices. And now it’s just about 3 1/2 months until I leave. So here’s the plan:
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My next adventure: Starting with Turkey
In my last post I shared my itinerary for my upcoming trip to Turkey and the Caucasus. Now here’s some detail about the Turkey portion.
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My next adventure: (Turkey) Türkiye and the Caucasus
What do you do when you’ve been writing about your upcoming trip to Turkey, and now it turns out you’re going to Türkiye?
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Why am I going to the Caucasus?
The Caucasus — Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia — have never been on my radar, much less on my bucket list. So why am I going?
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My next adventure: The plan for Azerbaijan
My trip to Turkey and the Caucasus includes five nights in Azerbaijan: four in Baku, the capital city, and one in the mountain town of Sheki, in the northwest of the country. The basic itinerary is set, but I have a lot of day-tour options I still need to decide on. I am using the…
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My next adventure: The plan for Georgia (Part One)
I left off on Day 20 of my upcoming five-week adventure to Turkey and the Caucasus. I was traveling across the border from Azerbaijan to Georgia, so I’ll pick it up from there. I’m spending a total of eleven nights in Georgia, and that’s a lot to cover. So this post is about the first five…
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My next adventure: The plan for Georgia (Part Two)
When last you heard from me, I was leaving Tbilisi, Georgia, on Day 26 of my trip to Turkey and the Caucasus. So I will pick it up there. As I mentioned in Part One, I made some changes to my itinerary. I have decided to cut Batumi, the Black Sea resort city I was planning…
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My next adventure: The plan for Armenia
At the end of my last post I was in Akhaltsikhe, Georgia, and heading to Armenia. Here’s my plan for my four days there.
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Turkey and the Caucasus: My final itinerary
With just nine days until I leave, I’ve settled on my final itinerary. An itinerary is a constantly moving target. Things can happen, change is often necessary, and flexibility is absolutely essential. Since I posted my original itinerary, things have happened, change has been necessary, and flexibility has come in handy. Some of the changes…
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Sleeping in a pod
I am now an expert on sleeping in a pod. For my trip to Istanbul, there is a direct flight from Mexico City departing at 10:05. I had to book a separate flight between Guadalajara and MEX, and the earliest flights in the morning were too tight for making my connection. So I flew here last…
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Intro to Istanbul: It’s mostly about food, of course
I’ve been hearing and reading about how wonderful the food in Istanbul is for months. Today I had my first chance to find out for myself. And now, after looking forward to this trip for months, my first day in Istanbul is now something to look back at. Based on today’s samplings, I can attest to…
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Istanbul, Day 2: Historical, Hot, and Delicious
On yesterday’s walking tour I got to see many of Istanbul’s historical sites. It was also a very hot day. And in between the sites, the food was delicious. Despite the heat, it was a great day
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Turkish Delight
Turkish Delight is a confection. It’s also an apt description of my third day in Istanbul.
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Istanbul Day 4: Food, food, and more food
I spent most of my fourth day on a walking tour sampling food in Istanbul on both continents. Afterwards, I visited two beautiful mosques. Food for the belly followed by food for the soul.
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A Random Day in Istanbul
Yesterday was a random day in Istanbul, with a lot of different activities and no theme. So I’m going to start with some random thoughts.
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Final Impressions of Istanbul
As I write, I’m sitting at breakfast at my hotel in Kuşadası. This post is about my final impressions of Istanbul, though, so I’ll write later about Kuşadası and my day today, but I just wanted to share this glorious view of the Aegean Sea.
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Ephesus and Less
Today I saw Ephesus and more, except everything else was lesser than Ephesus. Hence the title. If I only saw Ephesus on this trip, it was worth the long journey from Mexico.
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Hierapolis: A long day’s drive to some ruins
I thought today’s excursion was about Pamukkale, and I’d also see the adjacent ruins of Hierapolis It turns out today’s excursion was about Hierapolis, and I also saw the travertine pools of Pamukkale.
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Antalya: from the sublime to the ridiculous
Driving from the airport to my hotel in Antalya went through the worst kind of suburban sprawl such as you see in the USA. It was hard to distinguish this as a Turkish city. Strip mall after strip mall, car dealerships, IKEA, outlet malls, etc. When we got close to the hotel, it became more…
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The ruins never fail to impress
Today I visited three sites near Antalya that had stunning ruins. No matter how many different sites I’ve been to on this trip, I’ve seen things that have consistently blown me away.
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Caves and Rocks
I’ve seen a lot of pictures of Cappadocia, and I knew there were caves and rocks, but until I saw it for myself, I really had no idea what it was all about. Today was a revelation.
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Cappadocia: fairy chimneys, caves, and a view from above
The history and gorgeous geological variety that is Cappadocia was on full display today: from a hot air balloon, ground level, and below.
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Baku: A city of contrasts
Baku is a delightfully charming city with attractive historic architecture. Baku is also a dramatically modern city with startling skyscrapers and brilliantly conceived spaces. I read a lot about Baku before arriving, but I was still not prepared for this city of contrasts.
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Azerbaijan: land of contrasts
I previously wrote about how Baku is a city of contrasts. I now have to take it a step further. In the last two days, as I traveled outside Baku, I’ve seen an extraordinary variety in almost all things. Azerbaijan strikes me as a land of great contrasts.
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Tbilisi Is Tdiefor
I had my first day in Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital and largest city, yesterday. To say I was charmed is an understatement. My guide, Irakli, took me on a walk that seemed to offer new delights around every corner and up every hill. I was far too engaged and delighted to notice how much we were…
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Tbilisi Retrospective
This morning I will be saying ნახვამდის (nakhvamdis, or goodbye) to Tbilisi. My experiences here and on excursions outside the city have filled me with a lot of feelings, too many to recount here.
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Surreality and rain
Two full days in Kutaisi would have been great if the rain hadn’t interfered with some of my plans. Still, this is an interesting city, and some stops on the way here were quite fascinating.
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Summing Up the Caucasus: Politics
I normally try to blog as I go, but during the last part of my time in the Caucasus, I was on the go so much that I didn’t find time to post updates. I also try to chronicle my daily activities while traveling. But instead, now that I’ve been home a few weeks, I’m…
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Summing Up the Caucasus: Three Capital Cities
Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, three small countries in the Caucasus, all gained independence from the Soviet Union at the same time. Before this trip, I expected that Baku, Tbilisi, and Yerevan, their three capital cities, would all be more or less similar in nature and appearance. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
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The Caucasus: Smaller Cities and Towns
The capital cities of Baku, Tbilisi, and Yerevan are also their countries’ largest cities, and that’s where I spent most of my time. But I visited several smaller cities and towns in the Caucasus, a few on overnights, and others on short day trips or drive-throughs. A few of these had some charm, with attractive…
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Summing Up the Caucasus: Religion
The history of religion in the Caucasus is long and complicated. I saw many mosques, churches, monasteries, and monuments, but it would take a lot of study to understand the complex stories about how religious beliefs have shaped the politics and cultures of Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia. I am not offering much detail here. Just…
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Summing up the Caucasus: Food
The food in the Caucasus was a joy for me. I am an adventurous eater. There are few things I won’t try. And the the Caucasus offered many opportunities to try some delicious (and not-so-delicious-but-still-interesting) foods. I was often surprised and sometimes delighted by my food adventures in Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia. This post doesn’t…
