But where’s the pearl?

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 0

It’s hard to believe at this time yesterday I was sitting on my balcony in Korčula savoring my last moments in paradise before getting on a boat for the two-hour cruise south to Dubrovnik. Now here I am, sitting in … Continued

Of course you love Korčula

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 0

Who would think a day in a place as serene and lovely and idyllic as Korčula would also wear me out so completely? It’s strange, because I didn’t do anything other than wander around. I even took a nap in the … Continued

Paradise Found, Lost, and Regained

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 2

Imagine you’re on a Mediterranean island. You’re sitting on a third-story balcony. In front of you, not ten meters away, the clear blue waters of the Adriatic reach 500 meters to a rugged mountain landscape, a few red-roofed houses clinging … Continued

Less seeing, more being

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 1

This was one of those days that everyone else calls “vacation.” I call it “nothing to do.” But that’s okay. This is a beautiful place to do nothing. I simply wandered around most of the day. Sat and watched people. … Continued

Split and found paradise

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While I was waiting in line to board the catamaran to Hvar (along with, it seemed, every other American in Split), someone standing nearby said to his companions, “We’re splitting Split.” No one laughed, and I said to him, “I bet that’s the … Continued

What bridge?

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Today I remembered why I love to travel. It’s not to see a famous and beautiful bridge and walk the cobbled streets of an “Old Town.” Nor is it to buy the same tacky, made-in-China souvenirs that are sold in … Continued

Sarajevo is a sly seductress

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My first impressions of Sarajevo, arriving in pouring rain and heavy traffic two nights ago after a long day of driving, were not so good. The city seemed dank and crowded and not ready for prime time. Even yesterday, after that … Continued

My Walk with Amir

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 2

I’m going to try something different today. I’m not going to talk about what I saw. And I’m not going to include any of the photos I took. (For one thing, it was raining all day and many of my … Continued

Driving, Rain in Bosnia

posted in: Balkans 2014 | 1

We departed this morning a little before 9:00, anticipating the longest drive of the trip, estimated by Google (and by the folks at JayWay, the tour company that helped create the itinerary) as about five hours. But we didn’t arrive at … Continued