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  • It’s Where the Train Stopped
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys | Stories

    It’s Where the Train Stopped

    ByLane April 23, 2019January 9, 2022

    “This is what I want you to understand,” said Mateusz as he drew lines and dots on his crude map of Poland.

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  • Random Krakow
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Random Krakow

    ByLane April 21, 2019January 9, 2022

    Planty The Old Town of Krakow used to be surrounded by a wall, and that wall used to be surrounded by a moat. In the early 19th century they tore down most of the wall and filled in the moat, creating what is today a lovely garden called Planty Park. On Friday afternoon, after my…

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  • Auschwitz-Birkenau
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Auschwitz-Birkenau

    ByLane April 19, 2019January 9, 2022

    I have very little to say about my visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau. I took only the one photo, at the entrance to Auschwitz II-Birkenau. What kind of monsters can perpetrate crimes of such enormity, of such depravity?

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  • Not the next Prague
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Not the next Prague

    ByLane April 18, 2019January 10, 2022

    Of all the Eastern European cities laying claim to the boast, “the next Prague,” Krakow is for real. So writes Rick Steves in his Krakow, Warsaw, and Gdansk guidebook. What a crock!

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  • Warsaw Wrap-up
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Warsaw Wrap-up

    ByLane April 18, 2019June 20, 2022

    I was trying to pick a representative photo for the “featured image” of this post, and I settled on the Palace of Science and Culture, perhaps the ugliest building I’ve ever see. Built in the early 1950s, the locals consider it a harsh reminder of the Soviet occupation of Poland and an affront to the…

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  • First day in Warsaw
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    First day in Warsaw

    ByLane April 16, 2019June 20, 2022

    I have to confess, as I was getting toward the end of my visit to Berlin, I was starting to have doubts about having planned a four-week trip. I found myself getting worn out and worn down. And I was a little concerned that I was running out of steam just halfway through my trip. Now…

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  • Berlin Retrospective
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Berlin Retrospective

    ByLane April 15, 2019January 9, 2022

    It’s Sunday, April 14. I’m currently on a train from Berlin to Warsaw. We just departed, and the journey will be over six hours, so I have plenty of time to make up for not blogging during most of my five-and-a-half days in Berlin. I kept thinking I would find time to blog, but then…

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  • Berlin Story
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Berlin Story

    ByLane April 10, 2019June 20, 2022

    I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking. —Christopher Isherwood Sometimes when I’m traveling, I feel that way. I like to observe a little from a distance. I like seeing what I see. My actual camera helps with the recording. But I try to stay out of the frame. The…

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  • Home away from home
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys | Tips

    Home away from home

    ByLane April 9, 2019January 9, 2022

    Fast Travel The first half of this trip is some of the slowest travel I’ve ever done in Europe.

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  • Dresden
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    Dresden

    ByLane April 8, 2019January 9, 2022

    Monday, April 8, 4:00 pm Today is my last day in Dresden. I’m taking an afternoon break after a short (very short) day trip to Görlitz, a town on the Polish border I’d heard was worth visiting. I found that not to be the case. I was also told when I asked some folks for input on…

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  • A day in Leipzig, a night at the Semperoper
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    A day in Leipzig, a night at the Semperoper

    ByLane April 7, 2019January 9, 2022

    Okay, so I’ve been in Dresden since Thursday and haven’t written anything about it yet (except for my new shoes I bought here). But I will. Yesterday I went to Leipzig, so since that’s over and done, I’ll write about that first. Pilgrimage It was a spectacular day. In fact, every day of this trip so far…

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  • New shoes in Dresden
    Central Europe 2019 | Real Journeys

    New shoes in Dresden

    ByLane April 5, 2019October 9, 2022

    The best part of my day today was buying new shoes. Okay, that’s completely not true, except it kind of is.

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