Mongolian wrestling and a bit more

Yesterday we checked out of our hotel in Ulaanbaatar, and in the afternoon we flew to the Gobi Desert. We had plenty of time earlier in the day, and the highlight of our experience, for me, was watching some young men engage in Mongolian wrestling, one of the three “manly games.” (You’ll recall that the day before we saw some archery, another of the manly sports. And I’m hoping we’ll have a chance to see some horse racing, the third of them.)

We’re staying in gers (what we call yurts back home; ger is the Mongolian word) at a camp in the middle of nowhere, and I’ll save Gobi experiences for another post. But if you want a preview, I’ve started a photo album.

So here’s a quick rundown of yesterday’s Ulaanbaatar adventures.

Zaisan Memorial

Quintin Soloviev, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

In 1971, the fiftieth anniversary of Mongolian independence, this monument opened on a hilltop in Ulaanbaatar. It honors the Mongolian and Soviet soldiers killed in World War II. Later, the mosaic mural was added, depicting scenes of friendship between the people of the Soviet Union and the Mongolian People’s Republic.

Getting ready for the climb to the monument
This panel represents the early foundation of the joint military alliance. It illustrates Soviet support for Mongolia’s declaration of independence in 1921, where the Russian Red Army fought alongside Mongolian revolutionary leader Damdin Sükhbaatar to drive out Chinese warlords and White Russian forces.
This scene depicts the joint defeat of the Japanese Kwantung Army along the Mongolian-Manchurian border at the Battle of Khalkhin Gol in 1939.
Scenes of common sacrifice and victory in World War II, where Mongolian troops and supply brigades fought in coordination with the Red Army, and the defeat of the Nazis.
This scene commemorates the Soyuz 39 space mission, which carried Jugderdemidiin Gurragchaa—the first Mongolian in space—into orbit in 1981.

Mongolian wrestling

From there we headed to a hotel where a tent on the grounds housed a wrestling arena of sorts. Eric, our trip leader, explained that this event was for younger wrestlers and wasn’t at an elite level of competition, though there were a few stronger competitors. The wrestlers were members of a club from western Mongolia that Eric himself used to belong to before his wrestling days were cut short by an injury.

The rules of Mongolian wrestling (Bökh in Mongolian) are very simple: no pinching, biting, or kicking. The first one to hit the ground with anything other than hands and feet loses. That’s it

The rituals around it are fascinating. They have a prescribed outfit with sleeves, a rope tied around the abdomen, briefs, and boots. Before each match they do a short falcon dance. At the end of the match, a judge puts a hat on the winner, who then does another falcon dance around the Mongolian flag.

This was so interesting to watch! I loved getting this peek at an aspect of Mongolian culture that I imagine most tourists don’t get to see.

Hot pot

From there we headed to a restaurant for lunch, where we enjoyed hot pot. When I had hot pot in Vietnam, there was one big pot, and our trip leader did all the work. At this place, we each had our own pot of bone broth sitting on individual hotplates embedded in the table. We chose our ingredients and made our own to our liking. Apparently this has become a thing in some areas of the US with a large Asian population, but this was a first for me.

There was beef and chicken, dumplings, noodles, mushrooms, and all kinds of vegetables, with peanut sauce and soy sauce.

From there we headed to the airport. And now our first full day in the Gobi Desert is about to begin, so I’ll sign off. Be sure to check out all my photos from UB. We’ll be back there in a few days and there’ll be lots more! 

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