Romania, Part Two: Sibiu

posted in: Bulmanipestan 2026 | 3

We finally got a bit of a break from the rain! In fact we even got some sunshine yesterday afternoon. Sibiu definitely looked better under clear skies. But this morning, as we get ready to leave, the sky is grey and overcast, and the forecast for our next destination, Brașov, is rain, rain, and more rain.

But first, a little overview of Sibiu.

Where/What is Sibiu?

Sibiu is in central Romania, in the historical region of Transylvania. It’s about 275 km northwest of Bucharest. The city straddles the Cibin River, which gives it its name.

Originally established by Saxon settlers in the 12th century, the town or village got the name Hermannsdorf and later Hermannstadt. Supposedly, this name comes from Archbishop Hermann II of Cologne, or by a man named Hermann who is believed to have founded the city.

When the Principality of Transylvania was a realm of the Hapsburgs, Hermannstadt was its capital city. After World War I, when the Austro-Hungarian empire dissolved, Sibiu became part of the Kingdom of Romania. There were still many ethnic Germans and a large Hungarian community here. After World War II, most of the Germans emigrated to Austria and Germany. But I still saw a lot of German-language signage around the city.

Sights

Sibiu has an old town that exudes European old-world charm. Winding cobbled streets, large plazas, church steeples, and cute houses abound. It has the nickname “The Town with Eyes” because of the many eyebrow dormers that seemed to be looking down at us. (See the photo up top.) There are also the remains of Saxon fortifications: a wall and some towers still stand in a few places. And intermingled with the older charm are some grand Hapsburg-era palaces and some impressive churches.

Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary, built in the 14th century
Holy Trinity Cathedral (Catedrala Sfânta Treime)
This Romanian Orthodox cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Sibiu and Metropolitan of Transylvania. It was built between 1902 and 1906, inspired by the architecture of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople.

This last church has a spectacular frescoed interior, one of the most beautiful I’ve seen on this trip.

Other stuff

On the way to Sibiu we stopped in a neighboring village, Cisnădie, where we visited a Montessori school.

We visited the ASTRA Village Museum, a village reproduction with some interesting structures from rural areas, mostly around Transylvania.

We had “A Day in the Life” in the nearby village of Sibiel, where we made donuts, painted on glass, met some school kids who were there for a field trip, visited a museum dedicated to icons painted on glass, and had a nice home-cooked lunch.

I spent about an hour in the National Art Gallery, which was not enough time. Just as I was getting to the good stuff when they closed. I added some photos to the album with the art I saw in Bucharest. I did manage to see more of my new favorite Romanian painters: Nicolae Grigorescu and Ştefan Luchian.

Ştefan Luchian’s entire creation is marked by his interest in nature, in flowers, with their chromatic exuberance. But starting in 1908, when, seriously ill, he was forced to isolate himself in his own home, flowers remained his only accessible subjects. The still lifes with flowers became the painter’s window to the beauty of nature, but also a bridge between the real and inner worlds, an expression of his feelings and emotions. The compositions with flowers (carnations, daisies, poppies, anemones), of great diversity, radiate a strong inner light and invite meditation. The painter’s favorites remain the anemones, which recall the tears shed by Aphrodite for the beautiful Adonis, killed by Ares. In the context of Luchian’s creation, the anemones are in fact the symbol of his tragic destiny, the symbol par excellence of his suffering, but also of hope. Octavian Paler rightly observed: “Seeing Luchian’s flowers without knowing what lies behind their beauty would be equivalent to the gesture of tearing out from inside the anemone corolla the grains of cold, of night, which make the petals burn even more intensely. Separating Luchian’s creation from his suffering would deprive us of the clearest example in our painting that suffering does not give talent, but puts a talented man at a crossroads from which a loser or a winner can emerge.”
(from signage at the National Gallery in Bucharest)

Here are my photos of everything else in Sibiu and around the area.

3 Responses

  1. Carroll

    I’m not familiar with Sibiu; it looks fabulous. As a history lover, I appreciate the historic background you provide. Also all the photos. 

    I hope the sun comes out soon!

  2. Gail Duree

    BTW — What is Plan B for getting home? I worry as much as I read your posts.

    • Lane

      No Plan B needed as far as I know. Please don’t worry about me, Gail. All is well!

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