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  • The Caucasus: Smaller Cities and Towns
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    The Caucasus: Smaller Cities and Towns

    ByLane November 18, 2022November 18, 2022

    The capital cities of Baku, Tbilisi, and Yerevan are also their countries’ largest cities, and that’s where I spent most of my time. But I visited several smaller cities and towns in the Caucasus, a few on overnights, and others on short day trips or drive-throughs. A few of these had some charm, with attractive…

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  • Summing Up the Caucasus: Three Capital Cities
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Summing Up the Caucasus: Three Capital Cities

    ByLane November 10, 2022November 10, 2022

    Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, three small countries in the Caucasus, all gained independence from the Soviet Union at the same time. Before this trip, I expected that Baku, Tbilisi, and Yerevan, their three capital cities, would all be more or less similar in nature and appearance. I couldn’t have been more wrong.

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  • Summing Up the Caucasus: Politics
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Summing Up the Caucasus: Politics

    ByLane November 7, 2022November 7, 2022

    I normally try to blog as I go, but during the last part of my time in the Caucasus, I was on the go so much that I didn’t find time to post updates. I also try to chronicle my daily activities while traveling. But instead, now that I’ve been home a few weeks, I’m…

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  • Surreality and rain
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Surreality and rain

    ByLane October 11, 2022October 11, 2022

    Two full days in Kutaisi would have been great if the rain hadn’t interfered with some of my plans. Still, this is an interesting city, and some stops on the way here were quite fascinating.

    Read More Surreality and rainContinue

  • Tbilisi Retrospective
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Tbilisi Retrospective

    ByLane October 8, 2022December 30, 2022

    This morning I will be saying ნახვამდის (nakhvamdis, or goodbye) to Tbilisi. My experiences here and on excursions outside the city have filled me with a lot of feelings, too many to recount here.

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  • An outdoor sculpture of a group of joyful people dancing in a circle
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Tbilisi Is Tdiefor

    ByLane October 5, 2022October 5, 2022

    I had my first day in Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital and largest city, yesterday. To say I was charmed is an understatement. My guide, Irakli, took me on a walk that seemed to offer new delights around every corner and up every hill. I was far too engaged and delighted to notice how much we were…

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  • A rustic village high in the mountains
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Azerbaijan: land of contrasts

    ByLane October 2, 2022October 2, 2022

    I previously wrote about how Baku is a city of contrasts. I now have to take it a step further. In the last two days, as I traveled outside Baku, I’ve seen an extraordinary variety in almost all things. Azerbaijan strikes me as a land of great contrasts.

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  • A sign that says I "heart" Baku. The heart shape is turned sideways and forms the B of Baku. It sits on a large green lawn, and behind it is the Heydar Aliyev Centre, a large curvy white edifice with large windows.
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Baku: A city of contrasts

    ByLane September 29, 2022September 29, 2022

    Baku is a delightfully charming city with attractive historic architecture. Baku is also a dramatically modern city with startling skyscrapers and brilliantly conceived spaces. I read a lot about Baku before arriving, but I was still not prepared for this city of contrasts.

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  • Cappadocia: fairy chimneys, caves, and a view from above
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Cappadocia: fairy chimneys, caves, and a view from above

    ByLane September 28, 2022September 28, 2022

    The history and gorgeous geological variety that is Cappadocia was on full display today: from a hot air balloon, ground level, and below.

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  • Caves and Rocks
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Caves and Rocks

    ByLane September 26, 2022September 26, 2022

    I’ve seen a lot of pictures of Cappadocia, and I knew there were caves and rocks, but until I saw it for myself, I really had no idea what it was all about. Today was a revelation.

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  • A Greek temple ruin consisting of five columns holding up a triangular-shaped crowning piece
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    The ruins never fail to impress

    ByLane September 25, 2022September 25, 2022

    Today I visited three sites near Antalya that had stunning ruins. No matter how many different sites I’ve been to on this trip, I’ve seen things that have consistently blown me away.

    Read More The ruins never fail to impressContinue

  • Antalya: from the sublime to the ridiculous
    Turkey and the Caucasus 2022

    Antalya: from the sublime to the ridiculous

    ByLane September 24, 2022September 24, 2022

    Driving from the airport to my hotel in Antalya went through the worst kind of suburban sprawl such as you see in the USA. It was hard to distinguish this as a Turkish city. Strip mall after strip mall, car dealerships, IKEA, outlet malls, etc. When we got close to the hotel, it became more…

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