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  • On the Nile: From Besaw Island to Gebel el-Silsila
    Middle East 2023

    On the Nile: From Besaw Island to Gebel el-Silsila

    ByLane October 3, 2023October 3, 2023

    Yesterday we started the day with a visit to Besaw Island for what OAT calls “A Day in the Life.” Then we continued south to Gebel el-Silsila, the site of an ancient sandstone quarry. It was a low-key day in terms of seeing sights, and that was okay with all of us, I think. It’s…

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  • On the Nile: Higz to Edfu
    Middle East 2023

    On the Nile: Higz to Edfu

    ByLane October 2, 2023May 28, 2025

    Yesterday was a light day activity-wise, but there was one big highlight: our visit to the Temple of Edfu. This wasn’t the most visually-stunning temple we’ve seen, but it is the most intact temple ever discovered in Egypt. So it did not fail to impress. In fact, the story of the Temple of Edfu is…

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  • From Luxor to Esna to Higz
    Middle East 2023

    From Luxor to Esna to Higz

    ByLane October 2, 2023June 20, 2025

    After visiting Karnak yesterday morning, we drove out of Luxor about an hour south to Esna. There we visited the small but spectacular Temple of Khnum. Then we boarded our dehabeya “Asiya” and set sail up the Nile (heading south). After about four hours we stopped for the night at Higz. We met a local…

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  • Luxor: Hell-adjacent???
    Middle East 2023

    Luxor: Hell-adjacent???

    ByLane October 1, 2023May 28, 2025

    Luxor became a major city starting with the 11th Dynasty, around 2050 BCE. Its height came around 1500 BCE and lasted about 400 years, encompassing the 18th, 19th, and 20th Dynasties. The ancient Egyptians called it Waset, meaning “city of the sceptre.” The Greeks called it Thebes, and the Arabs named it Luxor (“palaces”). A…

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  • Women in Egypt
    Middle East 2023

    Women in Egypt

    ByLane September 29, 2023May 28, 2025

    Yesterday after our visit to the Pyramids of Giza, we met Raheem, who talked to us about women in Egypt. She shared about her own experience as well as the role of women in society. This was part of OAT’s “Controversial Topics.” Unfortunately, one member of our group made it far more controversial than it…

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  • There Are No Gifts at the Pyramids of Giza
    Middle East 2023

    There Are No Gifts at the Pyramids of Giza

    ByLane September 28, 2023September 28, 2023

    Today we visited the Pyramids of Giza. In addition to getting a good dose of history, I learned something every visitor to this important site should know: there are no gifts. Nothing is free.

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  • A Day at the Egyptian Museum
    Middle East 2023

    A Day at the Egyptian Museum

    ByLane September 27, 2023May 21, 2024

    The main item on yesterday’s agenda was a visit to the Egyptian Museum. We started off with an orientation meeting at our hotel, where Mohamed (or Mo, or Dino) gave us an overview of what to expect. And because this is my third OAT tour, I got a pin!

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  • First impressions of Cairo
    Middle East 2023

    First impressions of Cairo

    ByLane September 26, 2023May 21, 2024

    Here are some first impressions of Cairo. I arrived this morning, got a ride from the airport to the Cairo Marriott, where I’m staying for the first three nights in Egypt, and walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch. After lunch I came back to my room and desperately needed a nap after two long…

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  • The long long long long wait
    Middle East 2023

    The long long long long wait

    ByLane September 25, 2023September 25, 2023

    I have a loooooooooooooooong wait. I’m in Mexico City airport waiting for my Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul, where I connect to Cairo.

    Read More The long long long long waitContinue

  • Egypt, Jordan, and Israel: Final Itinerary
    Middle East 2023 | Plans

    Egypt, Jordan, and Israel: Final Itinerary

    ByLane September 2, 2023March 5, 2024

    I leave in about three weeks for my next big adventure: six weeks in Egypt, Jordan, and Israel. I’ve received my final documents from Overseas Adventure Travel, so I can now share all the details of my trip. I’m taking two back-to-back OAT tours. The first is Egypt and the Eternal Nile; the second is Israel:…

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  • The year ahead: 2023–2024
    African Safari 2024 | Down Under 2024 | Middle East 2023 | Plans

    The year ahead: 2023–2024

    ByLane July 16, 2023July 16, 2023

    I like to say that if I’m not currently traveling, I’m busy planning my next trip(s). In this case, I have three upcoming trips in the next thirteen months, and possibly will squeeze in one or two more. Here’s a preview.

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  • Farewell Caledonia
    Scotland 2023

    Farewell Caledonia

    ByLane May 31, 2023May 31, 2023

    I have bid a fond and sad farewell to the lovely land of Caledonia. (Caledonia was the Latin name used by the Roman Empire to refer to the part of Great Britain that lies north of the River Forth, which includes most of the land area of Scotland. Today, it is used as a romantic or poetic name for all of Scotland.) Here is…

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